Roller Coasters to Nowhere: Ashby Hollow and Buzzard Hill (Virginia)

With a mountaineering trip on the horizon, Alaska and I recently tackled two sections of the Appalachian Trail:  the 6.5-mile hike to Ashby Hollow and 9.0-mile trip to Buzzard Hill.  It is too harsh to say that these trails have little to recommend them except a great workout in the woods, but ...

Both sections follow the Appalachian Trail as it travels between Route 50 and Route 7 in northern Virgina.  It is a bit of a shock to learn that the AT passes so close by, and the surrounding area seems quite pleasant.  Turns out, these trips are part of the infamous "Roller Coaster" section of the AT.  There is rarely a flat spot, just 500 feet down and then back up and then down again.

With weighted backpacks on (we were training after all), we were on our way, one day in late May and once in early June.  Although both trips are truly "walks in the woods" with little direct sun, be sure to bring plenty of water and food.  It can get quite muggy.

Buzzard Hill (9.0 miles, out-and-back)

Of the two, Buzzard Hill is the superior day hike.  It is much more strenuous (logging over 3,000 feet in elevation gain, and the same in loss), but there is a legitimate vista at the turnaround point to distract you from the fact that you are only halfway done.

And there are turtles!  This was the largest and most colorful turtle I've ever seen in the wild.

The trail leaves from the parking lot at Bears Den.  (Be a good steward: drop $3/car in the box for parking.)  Follow the road toward the Center (if you end up in a camping area, you've gone the wrong way) for a minute or two before you reach stone gates.  Turn to the left and head down a spur trail that joins the AT after approximately 50 yards.

Turn to the left, and you should be on your way.  As part of the Appalachian Trail, the white blazes are easy to spot and the trail is nicely maintained.  

The vista at the turnaround.

In the 4.5 miles one-way, you will:

• descend to cross a small creek using a foot bridge;
• hike over a hill before crossing the second fork of the creek;
• hike over two more hills, passing a blue-blazed trail junction in the process (but you stay on the AT's white blazes);
• and climb the final ascent to Buzzards Hill.

The top of Buzzards Hill has a nice flat section that, even in late May, had good views of the valley and surrounding area.  (You may need to keep your eyes out for a spur trail to get to the edge with the best views.)  Here, we had a nice break and snack before heading back to do it all over again.

Logistics:

The turnoff for Bears Den, where the trail begins, is about 1/2 a mile up the road on State Route 601 off of Route 7, near Purcellville, VA.  Don't be fooled: the parking area right off Route 7 is not where you should be.  Keep heading up the hill on 601.  Given the elevation changes and length, be sure to bring plenty of water and other nutrients.  And be ready to encounter several Boy Scout troops along the way. 

Alaska found a good spot to sit at the top.

Ashby Hollow (6.5 miles -ish, out-and-back)

The hike to Ashby Hollow is shorter and easier than to Buzzard Hill, but it lacks the views or even a clear turnaround point.  As part of the AT, it is just as well-marked with white blazes and maintained. 

Those white blazes I keep talking about.

From the parking area, you immediately join the roller coaster by heading downhill (to the south) for just under 0.5 miles.  A solid foot bridge welcomes you here to help you cross a creek.  Then the trail begins a long climb to the top of the first hill.  Right before the true "summit," there is a short dip (hollow) that breaks up the ascent.  The grade is not too steep on the whole, but if you need a break, I recommend the flat spot right before the hollow.  It has the closest thing to a view of the whole trip.

A different kind of "breathtaking."

After the hollow and actual top of the first ridge, the trail quickly begins to descend again.  After crossing a stream and, immediately afterward, a brief jaunt on an old fire road for 100 yards, the AT continues uphill to the top of the next ridge.  Welcome to Ashby Hollow.  The ridge is a bit rocky at first, but after 10 minutes we came across a grassy spot to drop our packs and have a snack before heading back.  Without a clear destination, you can choose the end point.  But if you end up at an AT shelter or, worse, Route 50 itself, you've gone too far.

A good place for a break.  The views should be better in winter.

While tiring and without views, waterfalls, cliffs, or other unusual features, I can say that Ashby Hollow trail is a pleasant and not crowded hike.  We only passed a handful of friendly people, including at least one "thru-hiker."




Logistics:

The trail begins from a parking "area" (a wider section of the gravel road) on Morgans Mill Road near Trapp, VA.  If your GPS (like ours) had no idea where this was, here are the directions from Route 50.  Remember to head downhill from here.

If you are hungry after the hike, there were several BBQ and other restaurants that we passed in Upperville, VA and Middleburg, VA along Route 50 on the way back to DC that looked excellent.  
 

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