Stumbles Recommended!
Twenty-five minutes after starting the ignition in my rental car at LAX, I was at the Los Liones Canyon trail head in Topanga Canyon State Park. Immediately upon hitting the trail, the noise of the city was gone. Ten minutes later, I saw my first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean from the trail. And it just got better from there. Bravo, Los Angeles. Bravo.
There are two options for this out-and-back trip: a short hike (3.0 miles round trip) to a stellar vista of the ocean, Santa Monica Mountains, and city; or a longer hike (7.0 miles total) to the Parker Mesa Overlook with more views and other highlights along the way. As the trail head is only 5 miles from the Santa Monica pier, you can easily work either hike into any weekend plan.
During my brief time living in Venice a few years ago, I was struck by the conflicts in LA's environment. There are so many cars, such poor air quality, so many houses squeezed onto virtually every hillside. But if you can look past the uglier marks of civilization, the region is strikingly beautiful. I could understand why so many people move there – even if the resulting growth has damaged the area.
The Los Liones Canyon Trail allows the hiker to observe both faces of LA at once. As the path winds its way up the hillside, the hiker can see the Santa Monica Mountains and other nearly-undisturbed wilderness and the sprawling LA cityscape in a single turn of the head.
 |
| The view from one of the many side trails. |
 |
| Turn left here. |
The trailhead is located 0.5 miles up Los Liones Drive from the Los Liones Canyon entrance to Topanga Canyon State Park. There is a fence with a sign for the trail on the far end of a small parking area across the street from a large church-like building. Approximately 15 yards past the fence, there is a sign providing mileage for various points of interest within the park. Turn left here.
 |
For the first 1.5 miles, the trail follows meandering, shallow switchbacks to climb out of the canyon. The trail has plenty of shade and is well-trodden, though at times the grasses encroached to the point that I wondered if I had missed a turn. (I also wished I was wearing hiking pants – instead of shorts – when brushing up against all that vegetation. Take note.) As you gain elevation, you can see ever more of the Pacific Ocean and the far side of the canyon.
At several points, the switchbacks cross a lush side canyon covered in ivy. It’s intriguing on the way up and just plain shocking to see when heading back down after becoming accustomed to the much more arid conditions higher up on the trail.
 |
| Green in the valley. |
After 1.5 miles, the trail spills out onto a spectacular view of the Pacific to the west, the Santa Monica Mountains to the north, and the sprawl of Los Angeles to the south. There is a park bench for gazing. It is the kind of city-on-high vista I expect to see Ashton Kutcher taking a date to in the latest romantic comedy, not a place I thought I’d ever see in person. Wow.
 |
| The short hike turnaround. Note the park bench on the right. |
If you are doing the shorter hike, this is the turnaround point. Otherwise, head up 20 feet on any of the spur trails on the left to a junction with a fire road. Turn left (south) to hike to Parker Mesa Overlook. There is no sign at the junction.
From the junction, the “trail” is actually the fire road, but don’t let that deter you. The views and ecosystems you pass through are worthwhile. If you can’t stand to stay on the fire road, you can always take one of the spur trails that climb to the top of each hill you pass and approximately parallel the road.
 |
| If this fire road doesn't interest you, I don't know what road would. |
For the first approximately 0.75 miles on the fire road, there is little shade and the incline increases noticeably. On the plus side, the trail turns away from the city and you are treated with more views of the ocean and the undeveloped hills. Butterflies flit about, small lizards scamper across the path, flowering meadows pass, views galore, and I, for one, couldn’t help but say “awesome” out loud. And no, I don’t think it was the jet lag talking.
 |
 |
| The view atop another spur trail from the fire road. |
Approximately 1.5 miles after joining the fire road, you’ll come to a 3-way junction with other fire roads. Here, turn left (west) for the route to the Parker Mesa Overlook. It is well-marked with a sign.
 |
| One of the "meadows," with the path to Parker Mesa Overlook in the background. |
The 0.5 miles from the 3-way junction to the overlook is fairly flat. At the overlook, there is, again, an excellent more-than-180 degree view of the city, ocean, and mountains. Honestly, I thought the views along the way to the overlook were better (if slightly more obstructed), but really, it is all great. The overlook has two park benches on which to have a snack and break before turning around and hiking the 3.5 miles back to the car.
 |
| Parker Mesa Overlook |
- Views! Ocean! Meadows! Lush canyon!
- 1.5 miles of true trail from the parking lot to the first park bench. Shaded in spots and not too steep a climb. I recommend wearing pants due to the high brush. Short-hike’ers: turn around here.
- If you want to do the long hike, turn left at the fire road and hike 1.5 miles of steeper terrain along the fire road but with views, meadows, and other pleasantries.
- Turn left at the 3-way junction to head west for another 0.5 miles to the Parker Mesa Overlook. Long-hike’ers: time to head back.
Logistics: To reach the trailhead, take the Pacific Coast Highway north from Santa Monica for 4.5 miles. Turn right on W. Sunset Blvd. and then left on Los Liones Drive. The parking area is on the right after about 0.5 miles, across from a church-like building.
Bring lots of fluids, some food, and sunscreen. I had 1.5 liters of water / Gatorade with me and I ran out about half a mile from the car on the way back. If you need to stock up, there is a Vons (grocery store), gas station, and Starbucks on Sunset Blvd just before turning onto Los Liones Drive to enter the park.
